EXPLOSIVE ETNA

In the south of Europe, on the Island of Sicily stands one of the most active volcanoes in the world. Almost in a constant state of activity Mt Etna dominates much of the Island, its eruptions are so frequent they’re seldom consider breaking news… it’s just the norm. With that in mind I thought a visit might be a blast.

For anyone who has any aspiration of actually reaching the 3,329 meter odd summit of Mt Etna, I must unfortunately dash your hopes, just like mine were when I read the first online blogs. The very real dangers on Etna mean that much of the higher ground is within an exclusion zone which for the average person means that it’s out of bounds. Only scientists conducting research are allowed to highest creator.

A little disappointed that I won’t be reaching the top we’re taken by jeep on windy forressted roads as we climb to altitudes of over 2000 meters. Today we’ll mostly be getting a taster of what hiking on Etna is like. We’re on the north side of the volcanoe. Most tourists flock to the south of the of the mountain, were there is a cable car, shops and buggy rides but I’d much prefer the solitude of a less popular part of the volcano, but by no means less spectacular.

Despite it being the middle of May and most of Sicily is baking in summer sunshine, at this elevation its much cooler and we have to wrap up warm as we head out on to the volcano. The landscape is truly spectacular and quite eerie. The ground is mostly black, brown with hints of rusty red rocks and volcanic. Patches of tress have started to come through the grounds. It’s quite remarkable how quickly nature will start to claim its environment back. Parts of the mountain look dead, like an apocalyptic event wiped out everything that once was here. But Mt Etna is far from dead. The fertile grounds mean that it’s not long (in geological time) before dead land gives rise to dense forests. It really is and forgive the cliché a wonderful cycle of life and seeing it and listening to our guide who speaks with such passion about how nature works here really fills me with admiration for out planet.  Large patches of Birch trees grow here, their white bark in stark contrast with the black ground, along with the Birch there are also large scrolls of alpines.

Our trek part geology fieldtrip takes us along some of the most destructive lava flows in recent years and to the creators of 2002. The lava flows engulfed the Piano Provenzano tourist centre. Not much is visible as much of it as disappeared below tones of lava but what is visible is pretty startling. We pass the site of a hotel with only its roof visible, pocking through the ground as we continue forth towards the creators.

The ground is uneven and we walk between and over mounds of volcanic ash. The word ‘ash’ being a little deceptive here. Volcanic ash is not just fine dust but also includes massive rocks which have be thrust into atmosphere and falling back to Earth around the mountain. Parts of the walk feel like we’re sliding down sand dunes others are like walking on gravel. We see rather odd looking trees every so often which a clearly dead, but still standing. Our guide explains as the lava advanced down the sides of the mountain, these trees were petrified – essentially rapidly boiled from the ground upwards.

We continue, every so often we’d stop for a quick geology lesson. I find this a particular enjoyable way to explore a mountain and my disappointment of not reaching any summits today has completely subsided. I loved Geography & Geology at school and perhaps for the first time in my adult life I feel the same excitement as I did when I was a child learning about volcanoes.

Mt Etna has certainly been an enjoyable experience, and a great taster. Despite much of the area being out of bounds there is still plenty to see and as already mentioned with a circumference of about 140km there are a number of different trails. I’m told there is a great four to five day track which takes a walker around the entire volcano, something that will certainly lore me back in the future.

As for Sicily, well we’ve only have a spare couple of days which we spend in Taormina. It’s a beautiful town, with a rich history and plenty of significant archaeological sites. It’s worth noting that this is one of the Islands biggest tourist attractions, with local prices that reflect the influxes of holiday makers. Never the less you can’t deny it natural beauty.

It’s location on the hillsides of the coast mean it’s easier to get the towns cable car from the lovely beach to the main part of town. The old main street lined with cafes, shops and churches make for a nice walk. One must sample the local Arancini, stuffed rice balls coated with breadcrumbs and fried. Perhaps have some Ice Cream and sip on some Lemoncello, all under the presence of Mount Etna which for now sits peacefully.