INVADING THE KRACK DES CHEVALIERS

Atop a large hill some 700 meters above sea level and overlooking a lush green valley in Western Syria, stands the magnificent ‘Castle of the Kurds’. Once described by Lawrence of Arabia as “…perhaps the best preserved and most wholly admirable castle in the world…”, it leaves modern day visitors as impressed now as it had T.E. Lawrence himself a century ago. Built between 1142 and 1271 the Krak, or Castle, now a UNESCO world heritage site is still recognised as one of the best specimens of a Crusader Castles in the world.

Within the inner walls, a large labyrinthine of enclosures fill the ruins – where even natural light struggles to penetrate. No artificial lighting exists anywhere within the compound, instead, the few rays that do make their way through the barriers are funnelled through the gaps, cracks and windows. Almost all parts of the castle are accessible but some are so pitch black that you can’t see your hand before of your face. There are various stretchers that you can either fall down or walk into so best to bring a torch. The darkness also plays host to midges and insects which shun the sun and heat found on the outside. Remarkably, if your quiet, despite the wind and altitude, you can hear echoes from wasps buzzing through these areas.

It is all a very refreshing sight to still be able to visit a castle in its prime. Many more examples of such spectacular architecture and history are too often ruined by the modern day luxuries of electricity, guides and bound by ‘health and safety’ outlines. Here you left to Doinit yourself. You can really spend hours here, admiring the architecture as well as the surroundings, which provides for some great hiking. For castle enthusiasts, you’ll be pleased to hear that this is a series of fortifications in this region built to defend the Homs Gap. While they don’t quite match the Krak des Chevaliers reputation, reports suggest that they are as much fun to explore as the headline grabber.

Reaching the castle is pretty straight forward; its location will usually require transit through the nearby city of Homs, approximately 40miles on the outskirts. Simply arrive at the cities bus station where local taxi drivers are well aware what most tourists come here to see. Just strolling around, you should be able to hear them biding for your attention with the asking words ‘Krak? Krak?’ (English: castle? castle?). If this fails then simply ask them. Most will be more than happy which in a shared taxi (usually small Toyota van) with a local family should be cost you about S£800 (£9). The journey should take you the best part of 40 minutes and the driver will drop you in front of the main entrance. Buses also service this route. Either way that you travel, be sure to negotiate a return time with the driver or check when the last bus back is as or you could find yourself standing by the roadside for a ride to come long. While many visitors come to see the Krak on day trip it would really be a missed opportunity if you weren’t to spend a night here. Clearly visible from the Castle, only a short walk away and nestled along an opposite valley wall, directly facing the Krak, stands the Bebers Hotel (25USD ).

Its restaurant boosts an impressive meze (selection of small dishes served – starters) followed by … whatever the staff recommend. The restaurant faces the castle making it a great place to kick back with a bottle of Syrian Bottled beer and watch the sun go down. When deciding which room to pick, ask for room 101. In the morning you’ll be able to walk out on your own balcony and be greeted by the magnificent Krak des Chevaliers as this room is in the perfect position, directly across, leaving a lasting impression on any occupant and a sight that has greeted visitors for centuries.